Q. Are there different types of stainless steel for sinks?
A. Yes. That is why some steel sinks look bright and shiny at first, but soon rust or corrode. Therefore, the premium-grade steel we select for our high-end residential sinks is stainless steel Type 304. It combines chromium and nickel in exactly the right proportions for superior corrosion resistance and durability. And it’s the blend that allows the sink to be formed into the dramatic shapes you’ll find. You will also find that this steel “gives” a little, reducing the chance of dish breakage.
Q. How important is the stainless steel’s thickness?
A. Very. The thicker the steel, the less susceptible it is to denting, bowing, noise transmission and the hard knocks of pots and pans. The thickness, called “gauge”, can be confusing at first, because the lower the number, the thicker the steel. Sinks are made in either 16, 18 or 20 gauge steel (16 gauge being the thicker of the two) — more than ample thickness for residential sinks.
Q. How do I punch extra holes in my sink?
A.Stainless steel sinks should be punched prior to purchase. Order the sink requesting the extra hole. Drilling holes may dent a stainless steel sink and cause a brown discoloration around the hole due to heat caused by friction. Quartz and Granite sinks have predrilled “knock-out” holes in the deck. Instructions for the knocking out the holes are as follow:
Carefully set sink into the cutout countertop. This will provide proper support.
Place a small flat punch on the center of the selected knockout sticker located on top of the deck. DO NOT PUNCH FROM THE BOTTOM.
Strike firmly with hammer.
Remove to install clips, faucet or other accessories.
Follow instructions provided with sink for installation.
Q. What are anti-microbial toilet seats?
A. Anti-microbial solid plastic toilet seats include an anti-microbial agent which is formed into the plastic. The germ-fighting properties of the agent continue to rise to the surface over time and inhibit bacteria and germ growth on the seat.
Q. What does it mean if I hear water running in my toilet?
A. If your toilet is “running” it may be leaking internally. While a plumbing professional’s advice is recommended, if your toilet is leaking internally, you can perform the following test.
Flush the toilet allowing the tank to refill.
Make sure the water level in the toilet is approximately 1/2″ below the top of the overflow tube.
Put a pencil line where the water level is – this is your starting point.
Shut off your water supply.
Disconnect the rubber hose that goes from the water control to the overflow tube. (The use of a rubber hose varies by water control model; there may not be one.)
Wait 24 hours – see how far the water leaks to in the tank.
After this test, reconnect the rubber hose and turn the water supply back on.
If the water level leaks to the seat that the flapper rests on, you may need to replace the flapper. If you feel any nicks on the flapper seat, you may need to replace the flush valve. If the tank empties completely, you may need to replace the flush valve.
Q. How do 1.6 GPF toilets differ from older model toilets?
A. Since a 1.6 GPF toilet is designed to flush with less water, you’ll notice all the water does not leave the tank upon flushing.
You’ll also notice the water spot in the bowl is smaller, since less water is needed to operate the toilet efficiently. The toilet will operate optimally if all contents are placed within the water spot of the bowl, and not on the china sides.
Q. My Kitchen faucet side spray is not working correctly, too muck water coming out the spout when I press the side spray lever. How can this be fixed?
A. This condition typically requires replacement of the diverter in you faucet.
Q. My handles are turning in the same direction.
A. Remove the handle that is turning in the wrong direction.
Remove the spring clip from the cartridge.
Rotate the stop washer 90 degrees.
Replace the spring clip.
Replace the handle
Q. My newly installed kitchen faucet drips after I shut it off.
A. If there is NO handspray, operate the handle on and off about 15-20 times. If you have a handspray, hold it in the sink and operate it 15-20 times real fast, this will remove any air left in your supply lines.
Q. What is ceramic disc valving?
A. Ceramic disc valving is an innovative water control system found in each American Standard faucet. Each time you use one of our faucets, two discs control water flow by gliding back and forth in an airtight seal. American Standard’s Ceramic Disc Valves are smooth and almost as hard as diamonds. The valves are unaffected by temperature extremes, sand, rust or hard water conditions. American Standard is the only faucet manufacturer to engineer and produce our own ceramic discs, ensuring complete quality control. Extensive life cycle testing assures that each valve will survive more than 1.5 million uses. With ceramic disc valving, American Standard guarantees a lifetime of drip-free and maintenance-free performance.
Q. How do I remove mineral deposits from my showerhead?
A. Unscrew the showerhead and soak it in a 50/50 vinegar and water solution for several hours, rubbing it with a toothbrush if the deposits are stubborn.
Q. How do I clean my showerhead?
A. If you have a Touch-Clean showerhead (look for rubber-like nubs on the showerhead face), wipe the face of the showerhead to loosen and break away deposits. If you have a Push-Clean model, push on the flat head surface to remove buildup.
Q. How do I remove mineral deposits from my aerator?
A. Unscrew the aerator and soak it in vinegar overnight and flush it with water, rubbing it with a toothbrush if the deposits are stubborn.
Q. How do I take care of my faucet finish?
A. Although your faucet’s finish is extremely durable, it can be damaged by harsh abrasives. Use only nonabrasive cleaners. Daily, pat the fixture dry with a soft cloth after each use. Use mild soap and water, rinse, and be sure to wipe the entire surface dry.
Q. How do I select a 2-person bath?
A. Unless the width of the bath selected is at least 48″, the drain location usually determines whether the bath can be used as a one person or 2-person bath. The drain located toward the center of the bath allows seating at opposing ends. A minimum width of 36″ is recommended for a 2-person bath with a center drain.
Q. What’s a tile flange and will I need one on my tub?
A. The tile flange goes around the tub deck and sticks up behind the wall tile (or other wall finish). It prevents water from dripping off the deck and onto the floor. Every tub that will be installed against one, two, or three walls should have a tile flange. This is especially critical on tubs that will be used as showers.
Q. How does the optional in-line heater work?
A. The In-Line Heater is totally automatic. When the pump is turned on, water is pumped through the whirlpool system. The water pressure activates a pressure switch inside the heater to turn it on. When the pump is on, the heater is on. When the pump turns off the heater turns off. The heater is designed to maintain the temperature of the water and has a high-limit cutoff set @104*F The heater has an indicator light which will be lit when the heater is on – it is on the heater itself and not visible without opening the tub’s access panel.
Q.Who do I contact if I have a problem with my tub?
A.If a problem develops with your tub, call the manufacture and their technicians will help solve the problem. Make sure to have the tub serial number when calling.